Maine Windjammer Cruises

Maine Windjammer Cruises
Monday, October 6, 2008

When the Captain and Mate are Mates

Ben McCanna

When the Captain and Mate are Mates

Treasure Island.

If Captain Brenda Thomas were a public figure she’d have gotten a lot of ink during the past year; checkout aisles from coast to coast would be littered with tabloids bearing her beaming image, and her publicist would log long hours on the telephone confirming or denying scurrilous details of the whirlwind romance with her new beau.

But Captain Brenda is not a celebrity; she toils in relative anonymity aboard the Isaac H. Evans and, thus, handles bloodthirsty members of the press single-handedly.

When I first met Captain Brenda last April, I stepped aboard her vessel amid the chaos of spring maintenance, interrupted her during a fit of orbital sanding, and asked a few simple questions about her hiring practices. Within 15 minutes, Brenda had divulged a beard-strokingly delicious scoop: Every member of her crew was new to sailing; the scope of this year’s fit-out projects threatened to delay her shakedown cruise; and she would soon marry Brian Thomas—an out-of-state landlubber she’d met on the Internet just 8 months earlier.

Isaac H Evans anchored in Stonington.

A publicist, I’m certain, would’ve woven a vastly different story of half-truths and spin, but Captain Brenda Thomas (née Brenda Walker) doesn’t roll that way. She’s a self-discloser of the highest order. If she ever cuts down a cherry tree, she’ll not only confess to it, she’ll submit the hatchet as Exhibit A. In a world where George Washingtons have given way to George Walkers, this captain’s honesty is not merely shocking—it’s apoplectic. Her trustworthiness verges on canonic.

If Captain Brenda’s propensity for self-disclosure is still in doubt, consider this. Yesterday, after leaving the Isaac H. Evans’s home berth in Rockland, Captain Brenda posted a news item on a dry-erase board near the helm: “One year ago today, eHarmony [a dating website] matched Brian and Brenda.”

A few months after that initial digital encounter, Brian quit his job as an auto parts distributor, packed his belongings, and moved from New Jersey to be with his new flame.

Today in Bucks Harbor, Brian stands on the foredeck cranking the windlass alongside some able-bodied passengers. He now serves as the Evans’s mate.

Flaking lines.

A mate’s job—apart from setting sail, swabbing decks, cleaning heads, etc.—is to anticipate and prepare for the captain’s next move. As a mate gains understanding of his captain, the two sailors increasingly live in unspoken symbiosis. (Think: Radar in M.A.S.H.) Yet this intertwined relationship doesn’t require personal similarities. In fact, when it comes to captains and their mates, opposites often attract. For instance: the no-nonsense Captain Ray Williamson is accompanied by the joker Andy Gardiner; the speed-talking Captain Doug Lee is accompanied by the stoic Adam McKinlay; and, in past seasons, the laid-back Captain Mike McHenry played straight man to the comic stylings of garrulous Dennis Gallant. Each member of these two-person teams complements the others’ strengths and weaknesses until they form a cohesive unit that can tackle everyday stresses with aplomb.

Sounds a bit like marriage, eh?

Under scrutiny, however, the parallels between mates and spouses begin to diverge (and I’m not talking strictly of carnality [though the members of the above list will surely thank me for drawing the distinction]). First, any two souls with twinkling eyes can get hitched; however, a mate generally toils as a deckhand for many seasons before earning his position at the captain’s side. Second, spouses in a modern marriage are equals; however, in the boating world, a captain’s word is law. If a mate fails in his duties, the captain has every right to issue a spectacular tirade. If, however, the same tone and tenor of argument were employed in marriage, the clamor would surely prod a concerned neighbor to phone the authorities.

Aboard the Isaac H. Evans, the captain and her mate straddle this fine line. Each has one foot planted in the terra incognita of matrimony and one in the practical matters of windjamming. Their relationship is reminiscent of the old Looney Tunes shorts where the affably paired coyote and sheepdog punch a time clock in the morning, battle for hours over a herd of sheep, then return to affability at the end of the business day.

Our cosumted hosts.

The deck crew aboard the Isaac H. Evans has just punched in and things aren’t going well. When Brian breaks the anchor free from the muddy seafloor, a moment’s distraction causes the chain to foul and the windlass to stop—a common mishap aboard windjammers. The Evans now sails toward the mouth of the harbor with the anchor dangling well below the surface. If we sail over shallow water, the anchor will set itself and the Evans will snap to a sudden halt. As Brian and the messmate feverishly attempt to unfoul the chain, the captain’s displeasure is made resoundingly clear.

After a few moments of high suspense, the deck crew frees the chain and lashes the anchor to the port rail.

Brian is new to this complicated game of sailing, but his skills have progressed in step with the passing season. In May, Brian began with a checklist of duties, but with each passing day those duties have become more ingrained—more like second nature. And, while facing such a steep learning curve, Brian has buoyed his spirits with a simple, time-tested mantra: “One day at a time.”

Brian hasn’t yet reached the point where he can anticipate his captain’s every move, but he has developed a skill that helps complete the symbiosis: he can roll with the punches. Each time his captain restates her expectations—now matter how pointedly—Brian keeps a stiff upper lip. While many would wilt under such impassioned tutelage, Brian shakes it off. He’s like a racecar driver who emerges unscathed from a fiery wreck and flashes a reassuring thumbs-up to the shaken spectators in the stands.

Not long after leaving Bucks Harbor, Captain Brenda and Brian share a good laugh over the anchor incident and harmony is restored to East Penobscot Bay.

Pirates prepare lobster.

In the afternoon, we drop anchor in Stonington Harbor for a brief shore trip, then sail into Merchants Row. After kindly ensuring that none of her repeat passengers have ever been to Russ Island before, Captain Brenda puts us ashore for a lobster bake.

The cook Ria Cornwell has salted the island with pirate-themed tchotchkes; the kids hunt them down while the adults mingle amid the hors d’oeuvres spread before us on the rocky shore.

Aboard the Evans, the captain and mate procure the last of the lobster bake supplies. When they arrive on Russ Island by yawlboat, they’re dressed in full pirate regalia: she in a frilly blouse, tattered breeches, flowing cloak, and tri-cornered hat; he in a doublet and cocked hat. The passengers applaud.

In the diminishing evening light of this peaceful setting, it seems as though the captain and mate have punched out for the day. There’s plenty of work left to be done, but as the lobsters and corn are cheerily distributed and our cups generously filled with sparkling wine, it’s clear from their enamored gazes that this party is hosted by newlyweds.

View from the campfire

Posted on Monday, October 6, 2008 in Permalink

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About This Blog

There are twelve traditional tall ships in the Maine Windjammer Association; this summer I'm sailing on all of them.

For many, a windjammer vacation represents the perfect Maine getaway. Each day is filled with the sights that have become shorthand for Vacationland: lighthouses, lobster pots, and loons.

But life at sea isn’t pure leisure for everyone. To keep these antique vessels shipshape, the men and women who sail them must first endure a season of hard labor during spring fit-out. Then, in summer, these schooner bums will work long days at the helm or in the galley, only to bed down for a short night’s sleep in a humble crew berth.

Over the next six and a half months, I’ll learn what makes these trips so special for the passengers, but I’ll also find out what it is about the cool waters of Penobscot Bay that keep these schooner bums coming back for more.

Ben McCanna is a freelance writer, editor, and videographer. He lives in Rockland.

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Sailor Lingo

A glossary of nautical terminology

A companion guide to Berth of the Cool, a Windjammer Journal

  • about (coming about)— the process of turning the boat through the wind from one tack to another.
  • beating— sailing upwind on a series of tacks. (Also known as sailing close-hauled.)
  • berth— a place to sleep on a ship.
  • bow— the front end of the ship.
  • bowsprit — a large spar that projects from the bow of the ship.
  • cabin sole— belowdecks flooring. The sole can be removed to expose the bilge.
  • close-hauled— sailing into the wind with the sails trimmed in as close as possible
  • coastal navigation— using two or more shoreline landmarks to chart the ship's location.
  • companionway— a doorway and stairs leading from the deck to below.
  • crew berths— bunks in the bow of the vessel. These are typically quite small.
  • downwind run— sailing with the wind directly astern.
  • fisherman anchor (yachtsman's anchor)— a type of anchor. Fisheman anchors are more traditional in design and used primarily for heavy-duty applications.
  • fit-out— spring maintenance of a ship. Includes painting, varnishing, replacing planks, re-caulking seams, rigging, and bending-on sails.
  • following sea— waves that are moving in the same direction as the boat’s course.
  • forepeak— the forward-most portion of the deck.
  • foresail— the sail attached to the forward mast of a two-masted ship.
  • galley— a boat’s kitchen and belowdecks gathering place for passengers and crew
  • halyard— a line that hoists a sail.
  • haul-out — towing the boat out of the water so hull work can be done.
  • heeling— when the boat leans to one side from wind pressure
  • headsail— any number of sails that are forward of the foremast (includes the jib, staysail, and jib staysail)
  • holding tank — tank that holds either freshwater, wastewater, or, in some cases, fuel.
  • hook— anchor.
  • jib— the forward-most headsail.
  • jibe— the act of swinging the sails from one side of the boat to the other while sailing off the wind.
  • lee (in the lee of)— a flat calm area of sea where the wind has been buffeted of blocked by a large object such as an island
  • mainsail— the sail attached to the mainmast (aft mast) of a two-masted ship.
  • NOAA— National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. A scientific agency that provides detailed forecasts on weather and sea states.
  • peak— the upper part of a four-sided sail that resembles a peak when full hoisted.
  • quarterdeck— aft portion of a tall ship (typically the upper deck). The helm is located here.
  • raft— a collection of two or more boats tied together at an anchorage or mooring
  • ratlines— ropes that form a ladder leading from the side of the boat to the top of the mast.
  • "reading from both pages"— idiom for sailing "wing and wing." When sailing on a downwind run, the foresail is "wung out" such that it is trimmed on the opposite side of the mainsail. From the helm, the two sails resemble pages of an open book, hence "reading from both pages."
  • rigging — (noun) ropes or cables that are broken into two general categories: 1. standing rigging supports masts; 2. running rigging allows crew to hoist or trim sails. (verb) Setting ropes, cables, spars, and masts into place.
  • schooner— typically a two-masted ship where the mainmast (aft mast) is taller than the foremast.
  • staysail— a headsail that is rigged directly forward of the foresail
  • spar — a hefty length of rounded wood that serves to support rigging
  • stern— the rear end of the boat.
  • tack— (noun) a leg of a journey in which there are no significant changes to the boat’s course or its sails. Once the course has been changed and the sails trimmed, a new tack has begun. (verb) Sailing a zigzag course to windward.
  • throat— the forward part of a four-sided sail; the part that is attached to the mast.
  • transom— the ship’s rear-most panel as viewed from behind. Stern describes the general rear-end portion of the ship, while transom describes this particular area. (Typically, a boat’s name is painted on the transom).
  • topsail— a sail that is set above the foresail on a schooner- or square-rigged vessel.
  • trimming sail— adjusting the position of the sail for the best presentation to the wind.
  • windlass— a winch that raises the anchor.
  • yawlboat— a small motorboat that’s used to push a tall ship during calms or anytime sailing in untenable (such as in tight harbors).